It was Hot and sultry in Madras. Our son was home on summer vacations, and I was away from home with long days at work. A family getaway beckoned, and it was then I thought of The Sinnadorai’s Bungalow, Valparai. I had to be in Coimbatore on work, and with a mere 3 hours of drive from the city, it was an added bonus. Decisions were made with rare family unanimity and speed, as we set on our journey towards Valparai. A breezy drive through the rustic villages of Pollachi and the scenic 40 hair pin bends after Aliyar brings us to Iyerpadi on the Pollachi – Valparai main road.
The “Sinnadorai’s Bungalow” was well signposted as we sheepishly followed the boards, descending into the heart of the tea country here. Every hill was covered with tea and the ubiquitous Silver Oak trees. We finally arrived at the bungalow, and my excitement grew as the mist gusted across the driveway. Bulbuls chirped in the trees, spotted doves cooed and squirrels ran across! It was like arriving in Paradise – I could get used to this, I thought. The most enamored of the lot, surprisingly, was my son, who at this point thinks a tea plantation job is a good career option!
Greeted with a several-course hot lunch, which we downed with great gusto, we sat in the lunch room, and the skies opened up. It was such a wonderful start to the holiday – a perfect wind down to sit and watch the rain, as the delightful thought of being here crossed my mind.
The Sinnadorai’s bungalow dates back to 1929, one of the earliest residences of the area, part of the Paralai estate of Parry Agro plantations. We stayed in the room called Sullivan with a lovely view down the valley. Tea estates have long been considered “green deserts” which are seemingly green, but not really supporting a thriving ecosystem. With acres and acres of plantations that are not going to vanish, conservationists here are now working to develop these environments into a more diverse landscapes.
The cast of characters at the Bungalow:
Thavam – the night watch here, reminded me of a lighthouse keeper in a PD James mystery set in a remote corner of the British Isles. With his gum boots and quiet air, he keeps vigilant for Gaur, wild dogs and leopards. With a calm presence, he pointed out the Gaur to us every morning.
Murugan – the Man Friday of the Bungalow assisted us on our walks. He loves the forest here and has a wonderful positive air to him. With a ready smile and an earnest enthusiasm, he filled us in on the ecological history of the place.
Ashirvad – the cook has a special magical touch to his dishes – with his coconut soufflés and caramel puddings being the most irresistible. He and Rani together worked the kitchen as they planned and executed their menus. Rani’s tomato chutney was a favourite of ours too and we consumed vast quantities of it, with everything, including the toast!
Uma – the housekeeper accommodated our laggard, malingering ways with cheer and efficiency – I think we were late for every meal! Panchavarnam was her cheerful assistant, and her spry, slight frame could be seen through the windows as she went about sweeping and cleaning up.
Birds and Wildlife:
The resident Malabar Whistling Thrush entertained us every morning and evening with its shrill melancholic whistles. Another neighbour who loved those earthworms was the Orange headed Thrush. The Early morning walk was rewarded with an encounter with a ruddy mongoose ambling across the path. A Green forest lizard would regularly sun itself on the stone driveway, keeping a wary eye on us. The Spotted Doves were also in plenty, waddling across our paths, reluctant to fly until we were real close. They cooed to each other through the day. The days were filled with butterflies and the nights with moths, of various sizes shapes and colours.
“But all of this faded into the background that one morning , when we saw the Great Indian Hornbill family.”
Murugan had taken us on a walk into the neighbouring coffee plantation with the hope that we would see them. Our walks skirted the thick patches of shola forest that separated the estates, and served as refuge for the wild animals by day. Our continued existence depended on their wellness, and I sent out a silent thanks to NCF and all those wonderful bodies working hard to preserve them. Some heavy swooshing in the trees and I saw a pair of Malabar Grey hornbills.
My luck (which is usually abysmal with wildlife) was not so bad I thought. And there it was! From a sudden movement of a branch, which i assumed to be a langur, emerged a yellow casque! “It was the Great Indian Hornbill! The magnificent bird was right in the middle of the tree, and we waited patiently, fixating our eyes on that bright yellow casque.”Murugan in a low tone said “It is a juvenile. The parents are probably around.” Sure enough there was a harsh call, so loud, it must have been heard in the next estate.
“With a whoosh that would put Batman to shame, the parent hornbills appeared on the scene! What a sight it was!”
They moved from tree to tree, in search of fruits, putting on an incredible show with the majestic display of their wingspan. As we returned to our rooms, we had a run of the whole house for our entire stay, and sprawled ourselves across the library with book choices from Pamuk and Amitav Ghosh to Bhagat and Collins. It was quite a luxury I admit and a bonus of travelling off – season.
We spent that last week of July, walking, birding, reading, eating and sleeping. The sunsets here are spectacular on the days when there were no clouds in the horizon, and the bungalow was well located to enjoy the beautiful skies and the layers of hills and mountains, each with different depths and shades.
It was time to leave, but not before we had a last look at the Grass Hills. It was a clear, sunny day, and the hills were revealed. The Shola grasslands could be seen in the distance and with that gorgeous spectacle, our splendid holidays came to an end.
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