The journey to Valparai was one of our most unforgettable experiences that we will cherish for our lifetime. It took us back in time to the days of the British Raj. Thanks to the Briar Tea Bungalows, our stay for the trip that offered us an exciting glimpse into the colonial charm of Valparai’s past.
When we heard that the trip to Valparai would send us through 40 hairpin bends, more than we’ve experienced in the other hill stations we’ve been to, we prepared for the worst. To our surprise it turned out to be one of the most picturesque and fun filled trips that we’ve ever had. Right from the moment we entered the road to Valparai, the enormous Anaimalai hills unfolded before us. Cloaked in dense green forests, with soft white clouds clinging to their slopes, these beautiful hills showed few signs of the noisy crowds we had encountered at most hill stations.
Any thoughts of the many hairpin bends that lay before of us soon vanished as we hurtled through excellent roads that were shaded on both sides by thick jungle. Our first glimpse of the Aliyar Dam was not very impressive. But as we climbed higher the sheer enormity of this 6.48 square kilometer reservoir soon revealed itself. A tiny island appeared from behind a peak and small boats could be seen speeding across the shimmering surface. Then, out of the blue, right in front of us, on one of the upper hairpin bends, we saw the majestic Nilgiri Tahr!
Then, out of the blue, right in front of us, on one of the upper hairpin bends, we saw the majestic Nilgiri Tahr!
Unfazed by the few tourists who had stopped their vehicles to take pictures of this endangered mountain goat, a bold male strode across the road, his wood-brown coat glistening in the sun.Soon three more adult Tahrs appeared, followed by a young one.
We just about managed to get a few pics before they disappeared into the forest, using their surefooted skills to climb a steep slope as if it were just another pathway. Although the Anaimalai hills would give us a visual treat of many animal and bird species, we were never to see the beautiful Tahr again.
Our ascent to Valparai continued for about 30 minutes, and then all of a sudden we found ourselves descending from the untamed cover of the forest, into perfectly manicured slopes of green that surrounded us. Sleepy roads wound their way past cozy cottages to complete the picture of an idyllic landscape that seemed right out of a scene from the Shire in The Lord of the Rings. We had arrived in Valparai. No tourist crowds. No hawkers lining the streets. And no traffic jams. This was turning out to be our dream getaway already.
We had booked our stay in Valparai at Briar Tea Bungalow, that was a part of the Wood Briar Group of estates. Long before we reached our destination we began to see miles and miles of Wood Briar tea slopes unfold before us, some fresh with light green leaves, some dark brown after their leaves had been plucked. Crystal clear streams wound their way throughout the tea bushes. Young Silver Oak trees, with their frosty leaves stood out like lampposts among the perfectly layered slopes. And then we saw a board that read ‘Briar Tea Bungalow’. We had arrived at last.
Although the signboard indicated that we had reached, we couldn’t see our bungalow. Heading up a steep road that took a sharp curve, we were suddenly transported into the past. There before us lay the magnificent Briar Tea Bungalow. Trapped in time, this ancient home, built in 1917, showed no signs of modernity other than the lone Satellite TV dish that protruded from a chimney. Maroon tiles lined the sloping roof and white bay windows hinted at soft curtains behind them. A red oxide verandah surrounded the building with antique chairs, potted plants and hurricane lanterns adding to the colonial era touch that was absolutely mesmerizing.
A beautiful garden with exotic flowers of every imaginable hue surrounded the property. As we entered the ornate reception area, we met our cheerful host who showed us around the three heritage rooms. Soft English colours adorned the walls and thoughtfully placed antique furniture, neatly framed paintings, lampshades and a warm wooden floor almost made us feel like we had walked in to a move sets from Jane Eyre. Everything had its ‘propah’ place in each room. And the overall experience was designed to take you back to the times of the Raj. We loved it, but we were looking for something a bit more adventurous.
Below the heritage bungalow lay four exquisite wooden chalets. Each perched on wooden stilts that protruded onto an old croquet patch on the edge of the estate. Big trees with lichen covered branches surrounded the chalets and played host to a variety of birds that sang us a chirpy welcome tune as we eagerly rushed to explore, what would be our home for the next two days.
As soon as we entered our chalet we fell in love with it. The ceiling, walls and floor were all made of dark brown wood. Oversized glass windows gave us breathtaking views of the garden, tea slopes and distant forest cover.
Soft curtains and a white king-sized bed made us feel warm and welcome. Tasteful décor added an aura of rustic charm that blended perfectly into the surroundings. Beyond two big glass doors lay a spacious balcony that was so close to the trees, that it made us feel like we were in a tree house. We were all set to sink into the comfortable bed, but it was time for lunch.
The property did not have its own restaurant so all meals, part of the package, were served in buffet style at a common dining area that was right next to the chalets. My kids are usually fussy when it comes to food, but when they tasted the sumptuous menu cooked up by the resident chef, they tucked in with no trouble.
The simple spread consisted of equal proportions of veg and non-veg fare. Every delicious dish tasted like it was homemade. No synthetic flavours or artificial fragrances. The waiter and the chef were always at hand and were more than willing to quickly prepare any additional dishes that the guests might request.
This was gastronomic heaven.
After our yummy meal we relaxed in our chalet for a while then began exploring the property that was built on a slope with four levels. A small child-friendly swimming pool was located on the level below the bungalow.
Due to the rains the swimming pool was off limits for the day, so we walked on down to the croquet patch where my kids went wild, chasing each other around the big grassy lawn while we collected small moss covered branches for our terrarium. Just beyond the croquet patch, on a slope that ran along the edge of the property next to the forest, lay two big tents. That was our next stop.
We spent the next two days exploring Valparai. Little rivulets attracted the few tourists that arrived during the day. My kids loved walking down the quiet roads and getting their feet wet in the cold shallow streams that seemed to be everywhere. Our friendly driver took us sightseeing and gave us invaluable information about each place we visited. The Nirar dam with its breath-taking views, a vantage point from which we could see distant waterfalls in nearby Munnar and a whole lot of natural beauty that was unspoiled, untouched and far from being commercialized. We were in our element.
Our third and final day at Briar saw us moving to the tent. Now we have our own pop up tent at home and expected to crawl in and rough it out in our Briar tent. We were so wrong.
As soon as we unzipped the door to our tent we found ourselves walking into a surprisingly spacious and immaculately clean interior. A soft comfortable bed, storage rack and dressing table, complete with lights, electric kettle and fan almost looked like a luxury hotel room.
To our amazement we found a fully furnished modern restroom located inside the tent. This was much more than we had expected. We were up early the next morning lounging around the porch in front of our tent, watching the sunrise throw long golden rays across the lawn and the trees. We felt so close to nature, enjoying the sights, sounds and crisp earthy smell of the forest that was just across a small fence. Then suddenly we saw two balls of rust brown fur bounding across the edge of the fence. A closer look revealed to fluffy striped neck mongooses, with their black tails curled up in excitement as they darted for cover. Trying to capture a pic of them proved futile as they moved too quickly and disappeared into the brush.
Time flew by and we soon had to pack up and check out from our cozy Briar tent. When our cab arrived we said goodbye with heavy hearts knowing that some part of us would stay behind. Forever lost in time on the slopes of Valparai.
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